This is Not a Test: 4Ground Ruin

4Grounds Ruin Back It has been a while since I’ve posted because I have no hobby space at the moment due to home renovations. Here’s a little terrain project I have managed to finish recently. This is a 4Ground Dead Man’s Hand “single story under construction” building that has been messed around with for This is Not a Test.

The 4Ground buildings are made from laser cut wooden board and are very easy to work with, although they are all fairly small scale. I wanted to create a simple piece of terrain that would look something like the partially burned, irradiated and ruined remains of a modern, small single story building.

4Grounds Ruin Window As it also had to be playable on, the first thing to do was saw the assembled building in half diagonally across the middle. This is a cheap way of making the building more accessible for gaming, and for doubling the amount of terrain on your table.

The cut down building was based on 5mm MDF that has had the edges bevelled slightly to make it easier to move figures around it, and then detailed with the usual mixture of model railway ballast rocks, kitty litter and sand. The cut edges of the building were softened a little by actually setting them alight with a box of matches. Turns out the 4Ground wooden scenery burns quite well.

4Grounds Ruin Front The walls are made from ripped up art board, and the roof is 1/48th scale corrugated plastic sheet that’s been cut into simple panels and attacked with a hobby knife and pin vice.

The whole lot was quickly painted with cheap student acrylics and inks. The basic wooden frame hasn’t had that much paint applied to it, just a black wash and some dry-brushed grey and white to try and give it a scorched look. The white art board has just been ink washed and dry-brushed in the same tones. Most of the painting work was actually on the few panels of corrugated plastic, which were grey primed then painted over with reds and then sponged with grey again.

I’ve still got the other half of the building to finish up, which will give me a couple of pieces of nice, line of sight blocking terrain for a ruined post apocalyptic table.

Tutorial: Ruined Roads from Vinyl/Lino Tiles

Testing Lino Road Tiles I’m still working on building up my This is Not a Test terrain. The latest onto the table is a couple of experimental road tiles made from cheap, repainted, self-adhesive vinyl floor tiles. These turned out fairly well for pretty minimal effort, and a few folks asked for a tutorial so here it is.

Step One: Secure a box of cheap, 1′ square, self-adhesive vinyl floor tiles. Locally a pack of 36 tiles costs around $50NZ from Bunnings, which is a large home improvement chain in New Zealand and Australia. They used to come in smaller 12 tile boxes, which was a better deal, because you’ll probably only need a few of them. You may also be able to buy them separately. Make absolutely sure they’re vinyl though and not ceramic tiles because you want to cut them with tools.

You’re looking for textured tiles, preferably in a dark or grey tone – although that doesn’t matter too much since you’ll be painting over them. I believe the ones I used were called ‘granite style’. The faux stone texturing makes them easy to paint, and don’t worry about how glossy they are, because we will deal with that later. The next photo shows you an example of the tiles I used.

Lino Tile Road Supplies Step Two: Secure your tools. You should have most of these already in your collection:

  • A sharp Xacto and ruler for tile cutting.
  • Some cheap house paint or student acrylics to paint the roads. I have black student’s paint, a battleship gray and a white house paint test pot.
  • Masking tape and an old paint brush. You’ll use the masking tape to create the road markings, and the old paint brush to both dry-brush the roads, and stipple on the white markings.
  • Sandpaper (not pictured). I used a square of 120 grit. You’ll use this to prepare the road surface for painting, by taking some of that gloss off.
  • Lino Tile Road Tools Craft woodcut tools. You may not have these, they are used to cut and texture the lino tiles. You can find these at art stores. Locally I bought my set from Gordon Harris for around $20NZ. You don’t need a whole box, at the most you need two tools: a wide, ‘U’ shaped blade, and a sharp ‘V’ shaped one. Some art stores may sell you a handle and a set of interchangeable blades instead, which could be a cheaper option.

Lino Tile Roads Step Three: Plan your roads, and start cutting. I cut one of the tiles into three 4″ wide, 12″ long strips for these roads. That’s about the right width for a 28mm scale, narrow, single lane road. The photo shows a raw road, with a finished one next to it.

You don’t have to cut all the way through the tile, just score it deeply with your Xacto and then you can snap the tile along the join easily. You’ll then have to then cut through the backing paper as well, which protects the adhesive back. Leave the paper on though!

Step Four: Ruin the Roads. This process will take a little time, as you’ll use the woodcut tools to cut away the edges of the rectangular road, and cut extra details into the surface of the tile.

WARNING: ALWAYS CUT AWAY FROM YOURSELF. ALWAYS! Even cheap woodcut tools are as sharp as your Xacto knife when new. Also when cutting the tiles it’s very easy to slip and lose control of the tool. Always cut away from yourself, because if you don’t, you’re one slip away from cutting into your hand or stabbing yourself in the torso.

Lino Tile Road Edge Work This photo shows me using the tool with a wide, shallow ‘U’ shaped cutting edge. I’ve roughly sketched out where I want to cut with a Sharpie, and then trimmed and snapped the bulk of the corners off with the Xacto. I then use the woodcut tool to shave down the edges so they look more organic. I’m also cutting on a spare piece of MDF board, because the tool tends to cut through the tile as I work. You can see the cuts are also exposing the backing paper. I work my way around the whole tile, turning it and cutting away from myself all the time.

Lino Tile Road Edge Cracks Next, I grab the sharp ‘V’ shaped woodcut tool and start working cracks and breaks in from the roughed out edge of the tile. The goal is to make something that looks like cracked asphalt or concrete. It doesn’t have to be particularly realistic looking, it just has to suggest that the road surface is falling apart with age.

It works best if you cut from inside the tile out towards the edges, because then if you slip, the tool won’t leave a long gouge across the middle of the road. You also want to cut fairly deeply because you want a nice texture to drybrush over when painting. The ‘V’ shaped tool is also excellent for creating cracked pothole effects in the middle of the tile.

Lino Tile Road Back Once I’m happy with the texturing on the front of the tile, I flip it over and trim away the tattered backing from the edge with my Xacto, while also leaving as much as possible still attached to the tile. The adhesive isn’t that strong, and we’ll over paint the exposed edge to kill the stickiness later. You just want to expose as little of the glue as possible.

Step Five: Preparing for Painting. After cutting, your road tile probably still has a lot of glossy, shiny surface intact. You need to roughen that up to ensure your paint job sticks. This is where the 120 grit sandpaper comes in. I take a square of that and a sanding block and work over the whole surface of the tile to kill the shine a little and add some ‘tooth’ for the paint. You’re not trying to sand the tile down flat, because you want to save that nice surface texturing it comes with, just rough it up a little. You can also sand the edges you’ve cut up lightly to get rid of any loose material there before painting.

Step Six: Painting. For the roadways, I mixed up a fairly dark asphalt gray base tone and applied two separate coats using a wide hog bristle brush. Depending on the quality of your paint, you might be able to get away with one coat – unfortunately my cheap student’s acrylic didn’t cover that well though. I also base coat over the edge of the tile onto the back, painting over the exposed adhesive to kill the stickiness. I leave the tiles sitting on old sprues to dry, since the back is wet as well.

Once the base coat was completely dry, I drybrushed two coats of lighter grays over the dark base, making sure to hit the cut edges and cracks well, but also lightly drybrushing most of the tile to capture the texturing it was manufactured with. The trick with drybrushing is use a large brush, make sure there’s almost no wet paint on the brush, and to brush at a 45 degree angle to what you’re trying to texture. This means the roads were painted back at forth at 45 degrees, working down the length of the tile.

Once the drybrushing was completely dry, I used the masking tape to mask out a stripe down each side of the road, and used the same brush to carefully stipple the white road markings on. Make sure you avoid the cracks you’ve cut into the road as you go though, because the painted surface is meant to be gone there. I’m not entirely happy with the white road markings, as I think they look a little too bright still. I’m tempted to hit them with a very light ink wash to darken them down a touch.

Finally, depending on the quality of the paint you’ve used you might want to varnish the tile with some cheap spray varnish. Although house paints are usually robust enough to handle being war-gamed on, which is why I generally use them for painting terrain.

This is Not a Test: Hirst Arts Consoles

Hirst Arts Machinery Joseph McGuire, the creator of This is Not a Test, recently launched a Kickstarter for a hardback copy of the rules. The Kickstarter is going gang busters and you should definitely jump on board for an updated, physical copy of this excellent independent game.

The Kickstarter inspired me to get stuck into some work on my small TnT scenery collection. I ordered a bunch of Hirst Arts molds a year ago for sci-fi terrain, and have cast them up several times since, so it’s time to build something.

Hirst Arts Machinery First up is a set of free-standing control consoles which were inspired by some Space Hulk tables I’ve seen on the Hirst Arts forums. These are meant to represent some kind of futuristic industrial grade control system for some kind of factory floor. They’re thrown together from a few casts of a single Hirst Arts machinery mold, and were quite fun to build. They’re a little chunky compared to the Pig Iron Productions figure next to it, but that works as they’re meant to be industrial scale. They were painted with house paints and the good old Marmite technique. This works just as well on plaster pieces, provided they’re well sealed with the first coat of paint, and you’re careful not to get them too wet while scrubbing.

Hirst Arts Machinery I’m also working on the machines these consoles are supposed to be the controls for. This will be a small set of larger based pieces also built from Hirst Arts. They’re meant to represent generators or some kind of turbines, and will effectively be long pieces of linear hard cover for This is Not a Test. In the mean time, here’s one of the consoles in my Mantic red brick terrain from earlier.

This is Not a Test: Pig Iron Productions Militia

Pig Iron Production Kolony Militia I’m painting a variety of figures at the moment, and latest off the paint station are these three Pig Iron Productions figures for a second “This is Not a Test” warband. They’re built from a couple of the Pig Iron Production sets: the heads are Kolony Militia covered helmets, while their torsos and legs are Kolony Rebel parts.

I mixed the heads and torsos because I wanted a bunch of raggedy-assed looking military survivors. Perhaps they were in the National Guard before the Fall happened, or perhaps they’ve raided an Army depot afterwards. The Kolony rebels have nice variety of tattered uniforms, but the helmets and gas masks still make them look like a unit.

I’m also experimenting with painting a couple of different camo options on them too. I’m trying to produce a camo scheme in 28mm that sort of suggests modern “digital camo”, without having to paint a million tiny squares. Here I’ve tried to paint a couple of desert schemes, as well as a sort of autumn woodland scheme. I plan to try a few others, perhaps a blue/grey urban scheme, and a scheme which is a little heavier on the green for a woodlands camo.

The figures are based on a mixed variety of resin bases I’ve picked up from Mighty Ape sales. I’ve used both Secret Weapon Miniatures bases, and Micro Art Studio bases.

These Pig Iron Productions metal figures are just a joy to paint. They’re pewter so feel lovely and heavy in your hand, something I miss with resins and plastics. They have plenty of variety in poses and detailing to keep the painting interesting. For example I didn’t notice that figure on the left was wearing some kind of rigid carapace armor or vest until I primed him up. He also has a bunch more webbing packs, so half way through painting he became the team’s medic. Pig Iron Productions figures aren’t cheap, but they are lovely and worth what you pay for them. I absolutely recommend them if you’re looking for any kind of sci-fi or post apocalyptic soldier in 28mm. I’m looking forward to painting the rest of the warband.

This is Not a Test: More Mantic Red Brick Stencilling

Mantic Red Brick I’m still slowly working my way through my Mantic Red Brick box, adding terrain to my This is Not a Test collection.

This is another stencilled piece inspired by a corporate logo, which was largely borrowed from Geof Darrow’s ‘Hardboiled’ graphic novel. In the background of his densely laden artwork Darrow messes around a lot with big US corporate logos, and this one caught my eye.

The stencil was cut in two parts, the outer shell shape and the inner shell details. Unfortunately it didn’t come out as clearly as I’d hoped due to the rather old rattle can of Tamiya Desert Yellow I used. A lot of hand painting was required to fix up the blurred edges of the shell, and the ‘SHILL’ logo was hand painted afterwards. Fortunately the floor varnish I use for cheap weathering blends down the handpainting once it goes over the top.

Mantic Red Brick Rear For a little variety the rear of the ruin has also had a small section of ruined floor added with balsa wood for a sniper’s perch.

This piece is the last of the larger pieces I’ve constructed from the Mantic box. There’s still a lot of terrain for me to paint in there, but it’s mainly waist high ruined corners and wall sections, as well as scatter terrain.

I still can’t believe was fantastic value this box was from Mighty Ape. A box by itself it can cover probably half a 2′ x 2′ table. Hmmm, I guess I should have bought two boxes in the Mighty Ape sale!

This is Not a Test: Source of 28mm Robots

Depend-o-bot I’m still playing “This is Not a Test” out at TCOW gaming club. Recently my Raiders warband acquired a ‘Depend-o-bot’, which is exactly what it sounds like…a surviving pre-apocalyptic robot. I’ve been using an old GW Necron for this figure, until another TCOW member rocked up with a bunch of Mantic robot parts. They were great and I traded away some torn sofas for enough parts to build two robotic pals.

Officially they’re from the Mantic ‘Ro-Tek Brutes’ Dreadball team, and come in separate leg, torso, head and arm pieces cast in ‘restic’, which is a cross between plastic and resin that Mantic use a lot apparently. This is the first time I’ve encountered it and I wasn’t that impressed to be honest. The figures themselves are lovely, but restic is much softer than the usual plastic other figure companies use, and it didn’t file or trim that well. It was a bit of a challenge to clean up the parts prior to assembly.

To give the Depend-o-bot a gun, I’ve reversed one of the sledgehammer style tools that come with the Dreadball kit and just thrown a bit of aluminium tube in the end. The original robots don’t have any ranged weaponry, just bludgeoning tools and what I think are meant to be ball catching implements. I’ve also added a good old broom bristle antennae sticking out of the rear of his carapace.

The robot was painted in a similar manner to my Hot Wheels cars from earlier this year, and has had a bit of AK Interactive weathering powder thrown over his wheels and some of the base.

This is Not a Test: Mantic Red Brick Stencilling

Nuka Cola Stencilled Red Brick I’ll admit it, I suck at airbrushing. It’s probably not helped by the fact I only own a cheap compressor without a regulator, and an even cheaper Chinese knock off airbrush. At any rate I very rarely airbrush because it’s always a fraught affair, with depressing watery looking results. However since I’m still assembling and basing Mantic Red Brick terrain for “This is Not a Test”, I wanted to add a little something to one of the larger, blank brick walls in the set.

One of the inspirations for This is Not a Test is the Fallout series of video games, so I decided to borrow some of their imagery. Everybody loves the refreshing taste of Nuka Cola right!? The first photo above shows you the finished, stencilled artwork. The stencil was draw by hand on a piece of A4 paper and then cut out with a very blunt Xacto (I should have changed the blade). The main wall was painted the same way as the rest of the Red Brick terrain I’ve built.

Nuka Cola StencilThe stencil was then attached to the wall with low tack painter’s masking tape and blutack. The blutack was rolled into tiny pinhead sized balls and slipped under the tricky parts of the stencil that wouldn’t lie flat against the wall. Namely the central parts of the larger letters like the ‘N’ and ‘C’. A little more blutack was used to mask out the centre of the ‘o’s and ‘a’s which I’d cut out of the stencil.

The whole mess was then surrounded by a plastic shopping bag which was fixed around the edges with more masking tape. I then took it all out to the garage and sprayed the stencil with Kilrust vehicle white metal primer – because that’s the only white spray I had to hand. After drying overnight, the bleed around a few edges was tidied up by hand and the letters over-painted with a little Vallejo “Iraqi Sand” and pure white mixed together. It’s hard to see in that top photo but I couldn’t resist adding a ‘TM’ marker by hand down in the usual bottom right corner. The wall was then finished up with brown tinted floor varnish over the top and the whole lot was matt varnished with Army Painter “Anti-Shine”.

Nuka Cola Stencilled Red Brick Rear I’m pretty happy with the end result, and it really wasn’t too much work to add something visually interesting to the large blank wall. I might try cutting another stencil for some more Hirst Arts based tanks and pipes I’m painting up as well.

If you’re wondering why the sign says ‘Queen St’, that’s because I live in New Zealand, where every town or city of a reasonable size has at least one ‘Queen’ or ‘Victoria’ street in it. Finally here’s the back of the terrain piece with an old, headswapped GW Necro Scavvie for scale.

Tutorial: Post Apocalyptic Terrain with Mantic Red Brick

Mantic 20th Century Brick This tutorial describes detailing and basing a set of Mantic “20th Century Red Brick” terrain. Mantic Games produce these plastic terrain kits for a variety of their games such as Deadzone and Mars Attacks, and Mighty Ape stock them locally.

These kits are great value for money, and come with the pieces already removed from their sprues, with a bag of clever connectors which you can use to snap them together without glue.

In 15 minutes you can put a whole box together and create a collection of terrain ready for a game. The kits really shine though if you spend a bit of extra modelling time on them, which this tutorial will cover.

Step One: Dry fit a wall section and find a base

Take the Mantic Red Brick sections and dry fit together the terrain you’d like to build. Don’t glue anything yet though, because it’s easier to work on the separate parts as we go. For this tutorial I’ve put together a simple ruined corner from three pieces. For the base I’ve used a section of 5mm MDF which has been cut with a jigsaw and sanded down by hand. The straight edges on the MDF have also been sanded back so that they will fit against the sloped bottom edge of the Mantic walls.

Step Two: Fill the connector holes with a texture stamp

Green Stuff and Mantic Brick Walls The Mantic connector system is clever and allows you to build a variety of buildings from the same basic pieces. One unfortunate side effect of the system, however, is that there are visible connector holes all over the assembled terrain. To address this, we’ll patch the holes that aren’t filled with connector pieces. The easiest way to do this is to make a texture stamp, using green stuff and a little olive oil from the kitchen.

Smear the olive oil on a part of the wall to keep the putty from sticking, and then press a large pea of green stuff firmly against that area. After leaving it to set overnight, the green stuff should be easily removed and the olive oil can be washed off. I also cut notches in the set texture stamp to make it easier to align with the brick texture on the wall parts.

Mantic Brick Hole Textured To fill each hole, take a little mixed green stuff and push it into the hole, using either a wet sculpting tool or your fingers. You want to get the green stuff smooth, and as flat as possible against the wall. If you find you’ve put too much in the hole so it’s overfilled, remove it and try again otherwise you’re likely to end up with a bulging patch which is harder to paint.

Wet the green stuff in the wall, and then carefully line up the texture stamp and press down with reasonable amount of force. If you’ve lined everything up and the green stuff is wet enough, you’ll be able to lift the stamp away and find a nicely textured section covering the hole. You’ll probably have to tidy things up a bit with an Xacto knife or sculpting tool, particularly around the bevelled edges of the wall. With a bit of practice, you should be able to patch each hole in a couple of minutes! Once again, remember to leave the green stuff overnight to set.

Step Three: Cover the wall edges and corners with plastic card

Mantic Brick Wall Plastic Card Once everything is patched and set, glue the wall sections together with polystyrene glue. You might notice there’s still obvious gaps between the connected wall sections and on the corners. The next step is to hide those with a bit of cut plastic sheet or styrene. Mighty Ape stock “Evergreen” styrene sheet which is what I’ve used here. At this point I’ve also cut the broken ‘glass’ out of the original windows, as I plan to replace these with cut blister plastic in the finished piece.

To cover the corners, I used a piece of thicker Evergreen rectangular rod which has been cut down and lightly sanded for texture, before being glued flat over the corner join. It’s a quick and dirty solution but works well to hide the corner seam. To cover the joins between the flat wall panels, I trimmed some strips off a piece of 1.5mm Evergreen sheet, and then cut them down and glued them in place on both sides of the wall, into the triangular space made by the wall seam.

Step Four: Pinning the wall to the base

Mantic Brick Wall Pinning Now those seams are hidden, attach the wall to the MDF base by drilling three small holes through the bottom of the wall with a pin vise (or similar). Two of these holes are visible in the base of the long part of the wall in the photo. The tricky part here is you’ll have to drill the holes low enough that they can be continued into the MDF base behind the wall. I then pinned the wall to the MDF base using some cheap 0.9mm garden wire and a bit of superglue, using the Blu Tack method which I’m described on my blog in the past.

Mantic Brick Wall Pinning Here’s another photo showing how blutack can be stuck on the base and then wet slightly to guide the position of the wall; just press the wall against the blutack to show the position of the holes, then remove the wall carefully, before drilling holes into the MDF base at the points where there’s obvious nubs of blutack. Doing it this way means the holes in the base will properly align with the holes in the wall. Remove the blutack and then put everything together by gluing sections of garden wire through the wall and into the MDF with superglue.

Step Five: Detailing the base

Mantic Brick Wall Rubble Now the wall is built and firmly attached to the base, improve the plain MDF base with some simple detailing. I keep a mixture of beach sand, kitty litter and Woodland Scenics Railway Ballast handy for instant rubble. Using watered down builder’s PVA the mix can be glued around the bevelled edge of the base to suggest exposed ground underneath the ruined corner.

A simple trick when gluing rubble down like this is to apply PVA first, scatter the rubble over the base, shake off any excess, then take a large brush and some more watered down PVA and dab it liberally over the glued down rubble. That will help the PVA from underneath to “wick up” through the sand and small stones, gluing everything in place firmly (which is what you can see in the photo).

Once the PVA is dry, wait overnight, then start building up the base with a cheap, flexible plaster. I use Polyfilla for this, which comes in a tube with a handy plastic scaper attached to the back. The Polyfilla can be applied in two layers using the slightly wet scraper. The first layer covers the MDF base, and some of the glued down rubble. Polyfilla dries pretty quickly, so you can usually work on the second layer after a couple of hours. The second layer creates a smooth final surface. It’s easy to get Polyfilla on the walls while you’re applying it, but just clean it up with a wet brush while you work.

After the second Polyfilla layer has dried, take a sharp sculpting tool and Xacto knife, and cut and score the edges of the Polyfilla to try and make it look like cracked, ruined concrete. Dried Polyfilla is fairly easy to work with and cuts nicely. After carving the edge, I sanded the whole surface with a 120 grit sandpaper just to give it bit more texture for painting.

Step Six: Paint

Tutorial Final Plain Here’s the painted terrain piece. I’ve used several different products to paint it as follows. To seal everything, the brick work and base was primed with an Army Painter ‘Dragon Red’ spray can, another excellent product that Mighty Ape stock. Dragon Red is a rich, deep colour which is a touch too bright for real bricks, so it can be toned down considerably by lightly drybrushing a variety of browns over it, working from a dark earthy brown, up to a light tan which you can see on the edges of the bricks. The trick with drybrushing is to use a large brush and to drybrush at a 45 degree angle rather than straight up and down or side to side. The window frame was painted with Vallejo Game Colour acrylics, with a couple of layers of quick highlighting. I didn’t bother trying to paint the Mantic connectors any differently from the wall as I noticed they blend in nicely anyway.

The brick wall and window frame were further toned down by painting with Wattyl ‘Kauri’ Satin Polyurethane floor varnish. You can use an ink wash, but hobby ink is fairly expensive so I tend tosave it for painting figures, and use cheaper products from the hardware store for terrain. The varnish collects nicely between the bricks too, and has the added bonus of sealing the paint and making it harder to chip.

The Polyfilla base was painted in simple grey tones mixed from cheap student’s acrylic paints, with a few lighter layers drybrushed up around the edges. The rubble was painted with the same paint used to drybrush the bricks, and then the rubble and concrete cracks were washed down with watered down Army Painter ‘Strong Tone’ ink wash. Once everything was dry, it was varnished lightly with an Army Painter ‘Anti Shine’ Matt spray can. This is mainly to flatten down the shine left on the wall from the floor varnish, but also to seal the base further.

Tutorial Final Decorated Finally, to replace the plastic ‘broken glass’ I’d cut out from the original wall, some old blister plastic was trimmed, lightly varnished with the Army Painter Matt spray, and then painted with some thinned down AK Interactive ‘Dark Mud’ Weathering enamel wash. The idea here was to try and make the jagged glass look filthy. The painted glass was glued into the window frame using PVA, which dries clear and won’t add any frosting to the blister plastic.

Here’s the same terrain piece with some added props and a couple of 28mm figures on Games Workshop bases for scale. As you can see, the Mantic terrain provides an excellent base to create and build great terrain for a number of different game systems such as Bolt Action, Moderns, or Post Apocalyptic gaming.

This a Not a Test: 28mm Ruined Modern Furniture

28mm Ruined Sofas Here’s a set of the sofas I cast a couple of weeks ago, but in ruined form. These were made by taking a resin cast of the original, intact sofas, cutting chunks out of them, building them up again with green stuff and re-molding them.

This set were cast in Ultracal 30, which is a nice hard plaster that captures detail well and doesn’t effect the RTV molds I use, unlike resins which tends to dry out then tear up the molds after only a handful of casts. They’ve had feet glued on them, made from cut styrene sheet and were painted up with cheap student acrylics. The figure for scale is standing on a Games Workshop 25mm base.

I’ll probably paint up a few more sets and use them as scattered soft cover, or as a base for make-shift street barricades perhaps.

This is Not a Test: 28mm Modern Furniture

28mm Scale Modern Furniture It seems I’m on a bit of a ‘This is Not a Test’ bender, so it’s time to start putting together some simple terrain for it. TnT is a post apocalyptic game, so ruined buildings and the refuse of 20th century living seem appropriate. Mighty Ape recently had a sale on a bunch of wargaming stuff, and I picked up a box of Mantic ‘Red Brick’ scenery for a very good price. The terrain from this boxed set, combined with my existing Hirst Arts mold collection should be enough to cover a 4’x4′ TnT table.

However one thing I was struggling to find, was a good supply of 20th century 28mm scale furniture and the like. As I’m trying to improve my sculpting skills, I tried whipping up some of my own. Here’s the first set which is a simple sofa, love seat and comfy chair. They’re posed here on lumps of blu tack, with a couple of converted old Necromunda figures, on GW bases for scale. They’re on blu tack because I plan on adding feet to the casts of these masters for a bit of a height boost.

They were constructed from cheap, builder’s epoxy that sets rock hard in 5 minutes. The quick set time means these were each built up in layers. Cushions first, then a base, then the back and finally the arms were added. Then the epoxy was filed back and patched in places with grey stuff where I’d left tool marks and the like. I’ve already cast a couple of sets of them in a good hard resin and they’ve come out quite nicely. I’m currently modifying the first set and adding more detail with green stuff to try and make ruined furniture that looks slightly more post apocalyptic. I also have mad plans to try and create a 50’s ‘Fallout 3’ styled fridge, TV and oven next. I might have to dig up the molds for my old Pulp luggage as well.